Important Instructions! How to work with raw Paua shell.

Using a raw shell

I normally don’t sell the raw shell, only polished. However just in case you manage to acquire some – here are some details.
You can use a flat mill file and file the lime crust from the surface of the shell. Or if you have a wet/dry grinder use that to clean the lime off, preferably using the wet system as it keeps the dust down The properties of the shell are very similar to asbestos, so please use all precautions when using this material. At least a face mask securely fitted, or even better a personal re-breather. Another way is when filing the shell, always use it in water, either in a bucket or under running water – this helps to keep the dust down. And I almost always work outside.

Hand Tools

A lot of people think you need expensive machinery to work paua, But no that’s not true. I use hand tools most of the time.
First you need a good pair of larger cutting pliers that are nice and sharp. These can do almost all the work you need for cutting and shaping paua. I use a large 7 inch diagonal cutting pliers (which I use like cutting fingernails) to cut my shapes. For fine work I use files

Files – from ordinary mill files to shaped needle files all needed to made small inside shapes. It does need a little bit of extra work but the results are worth it. An please if you use your tools with water, remember to wipe with a light grade oil when finished, otherwise they will rust up.

Drills Next most important tool! I use this once I have made the basic shape using cutters. I drill what holes are needed for inside spaces – then use the needle files to finish of the shape I require. then use either the small files or the pliers very carefully indeed.

I must admit that I use a drill press here, it's so much easier being able to have both hands free.

I should mention that a lot of care must be taken at this stage. The shell is fragile and can break very easy – I know! I broke this piece! Should also mention that when drilling holes, please place a piece of wood underneath the shell – it needs support.

Wet and Dry paper

Even if you use this as a dry paper, it is much better than ordinary sandpaper. You will need at least three grades, about 100 – 150 grit to start with, then about 600 grit, and finally polish off with about 1200 grit paper. I use smaller bits about 2 to 3 inches square which are easier to work with. And try and always use with water – keeps that dust down.
I also sometimes finish polishing with Brasso (other metal type polishing compounds can also be used). This gives a wonderful shine on your finished article. And you also notice any little marks or scratches that you did not sand of correctly!

Bone Carving

Same instructions can also be used for bone carving, the dust is not as dangerous as asbestos but it still helps using breathing equipment. Bone is easier to use, it's not as fragile, and can be cut with a saw, either a small jeweller's saw or a jig saw. Rest is just hard work in filing, sanding and polishing. For bone I always finish of using Brasso - a metal polish. And that's also when you see all the marks that you have missed.